Marc had decided to accompany me for another day – company along the way. Although our routes differ, and he actually does considerably less altitude, it was fine for today. Margaux and Joaquim, who had already accompanied us the previous two days, had set off early. We were sure that we would meet them again later at the pass where their bus was due to leave for Maribor.

The day was all downhill, but that didn’t mean that there were no climbs. According to the route, there were two peaks on the way: Razor and another one I can’t remember the name of, which I deliberately skipped later – a good decision, as it turned out.

Steep uphill through rock and dust

The day began in the morning with a steep climb through a barren, almost moon-like landscape. The ground consisted of loose scree and the ascent was arduous and challenging. Marc took it easy, while I continued at my own pace.

When I reached the saddle, I left my rucksack behind as a marker for Marc and climbed to the summit of the Razor with just my Garmin, poles and cell phone. First I got lost for a bit – and because I don’t like turning back, I crossed over gravel slopes back onto the actual path. Not dangerously steep, but strenuous enough.

The last section was technically challenging. I left my poles behind to have my hands free for the iron and steel cables. The path led over bare rock, narrow and exposed, but fascinating. I had a magnificent view from the summit: A look back over the last two days across to Triglav – and a view of what was yet to come.

Marc’s Instagram battle and male chats

When I got back, I found Marc hard at work: armed with a selfie stick and stoic patience, he was trying to shoot a video for Instagram. Ten attempts later, he finally had a version he was happy with. I had waited with iron patience and complained very little.

The descent afterwards was technically challenging but blessed with sweeping panoramas. We stopped often to take photos and soak up the views. One of the advantages of not walking alone: You sometimes end up in a picture yourself.

In between, we talked about the things that men talk about on long walks – women, relationships, life. Easy, honest, precisely because we both share such an enthusiasm for the mountains and their vastness.

At the pass

Margaux was already waiting for us at the meeting point at the pass with a cup of coffee. Joaquim had set off for the second summit – a stretch that would have been too much for Marc and me that day. We didn’t yet know exactly where we would spend the night and definitely had a few more kilometers to go, otherwise the next stage would be almost impossible. I had planned a difficult climb first thing in the morning and a few more kilometers over the high plateau. Sometimes the huts are simply inconveniently located. Then it’s either a very short or a very long day.

Marc no longer wanted to stay in an expensive hut along thew trail and suggested we spend the night at a campsite in Trenta instead. So we decided to sleep in his tent there. A tent, a shower, dinner – that sounded like luxury.

There were a few more huts along the way, but they were either full, too expensive or not easily accessible. At this point, Marc had had enough for the day. His knee was acting up and the prospect of a comfy seat in the car was just too tempting, so he stayed put for a while and caught the bus a little over two hours later. I set off on the trail alone for the last 10 km.

Down into paradise

Down in the valley, along the Soča River, the exertion turned into pure exhilaration. The path led through soft forest, accompanied by crystal-clear, shimmering turquoise water. I felt enchanted. The sound of the water mingled with the scent of damp moss, and every time the sun briefly broke through, the river glistened like liquid glass.

In my head, I was already planning to jump into the cool waters as soon as we arrived – as a symbolic wash after a day that had left me empty and alive at the same time.

We arrived at the campsite at almost the same time, set up, took a hot shower and then hitchhiked another three kilometers or so to reach a small supermarket and restaurant. There we stocked up on chocolate, lemonade and – in my case – a new notepad.

When I eat, I realize how much my body has long since found its own rhythm. I could now eat two meals every evening. Unfortunately, this is usually too one-sided and too expensive in the huts. So I make up for it as soon as I get to a village. The first dish is always a big salad – vegetables I simply don’t get enough here. The second is a proper meat platter with chips – a classic here in Slovenia. I try to shovel in as much fat and energy as I can. But I still don’t feel full afterwards.

I only had a thin hut sleeping bag and an inflatable mat with me in case a hut was full. This was never actually necessary, but they came in handy for this evening in the tent. I had only booked once – at the hut below Triglav, where I had expected a large crowd. Otherwise, I was often the only one there.