Because of the snow on parts of section 6 and possibly other sectionss, we had to drive a few hundred kilometers south to get back on the trail north from Liucura to section 12.

The journey was surprisingly easy. The interesting thing about Chile and South America in general is that very few things can be arranged via the internet. It is often better to ask someone for advice. In the department store where we got our groceries, we struck up a conversation with a saleswoman who immediately pulled out her cell phone to ask a friend how best to get from Curico to Temuco.

Less than two minutes later, we had the answer that the internet couldn’t give us. Everything here seems to be socially connected, not as anonymous as in Europe, where you don’t really have to ask anyone for help.

The sandstone formations that accompanied us for the first few days of section 12 created an interesting landscape that was not too complicated to hike. As on the previous sections, the landscape changes dramatically from day to day. I find the scaly or monkey-tail fir trees that grow everywhere here particularly amazing.

From February, the Andean fir bears a fruit, El Piño, which, is made into delicious dishes. So far, we have only had the pleasure of eating bread and sopapillas, fried pastries.

Romina, the landlady of our accommodation in Guallali, conjures up bread for us as provisions. It’s a shame that I won’t be back in the country for the harvest. But I’m sure there will be another opportunity to put my own cooking skills to the test in the future.

Nolwenn, Yannick and I had a hard time crossing the first of the two passes on this section. Steep, snow-covered slopes made the ascent difficult, but we were rewarded with a half-frozen lake landscape that spread out like a volcanic crater on a plateau at the top of the pass, which would have been a picturesque campsite had it not been so windy.

Yannick decided to take a dip in one of the frozen lakes. To his disappointment, the lake was barely ankle-deep and warmer than all the rivers we usually swim in. The almost vertical descent on the other side reminded me of the Tararuas.

The monkey tails showed us the way down into the valley, which we zigzagged down, taking it easy on our knees. We could hardly wait to find a flat spot to camp. The exertions of the day had taken their toll on us. After washing up in the stream and setting up the tents, Yannick and I arranged to play a game of chess while Nolwenn sunbathed.

I love to end the day with a few hours of sun. Depending on the location of the campsite, the mountains cover the sun sooner or later. Once it has gone down, we have to retreat to the accommodation we brought with us, as it quickly gets cold.

I bought the chess in Temaco at the bus stop. Every day, Yannick and I gather the last of our mental energy to play another round. In the mountains, it’s certainly a better companion than the Frisbee disc that I’ve been lugging around with me for several thousand kilometers.

As beautiful as the landscape on the GPT is, it can be surprising around every corner. In contrast to other official trails, on the GPT you have to weigh up which route to take with a clear head and turn back if a pass is impassable. Snow fell very late this year, which now keeps getting in our way.

As Chile is in the southern hemisphere, the seasons are reversed, unlike in Europe. Christmas is celebrated here in summer.

While trying to cross one of the swollen mountain streams dry-footed from stone to stone, I slipped and once sank completely with all my equipment. One of my hiking poles wanted to float away with the current. With a lightning-fast reaction, I was able to stop its escape and save myself on the other bank. My clothes were completely soaked, but the rucksack hadn’t had time to soak in yet.

Instead of following the course of the river, Yannick and Norwenn took a different detour to me. They went up the slope on the right and I went left. At least my route didn’t turn out to be a one-way street. They had to turn around and then head up the riverbed. While I waited, all of my clothes could dry out. On section 12, there was the option of taking an alternative route around a pass which, according to the satellite image, was still very snow-covered. There was no such alternative on section 11. Nolwenn and Yannick were no longer so sure of their abilities after a few bad decisions that day and decided to turn around to meet me back at the end of the section.

I gave it a go and arrived on the saddle with a lot of effort. My gaze was fixed on the white masses above me the whole time. The rock massifs above me were my vanishing point, under which I kept taking refuge. In hindsight, nobody can tell me whether it could have been really dangerous, I’m just glad to have reached the top.

Where the snow doesn’t stay, it causes rivers and lakes to swell and becomes an obstacle that not only gets your feet wet. We are always prepared to have to turn back at some point because there is no sensible way around. Bridges are a rarity here in Patagonia. Most of the paths are only used by the arrieros (cow boys) with their horses and cattle. Fords, flat spots in the river, are therefore the usual method of crossing.

After the pass, it was a leisurely descent into the valley. The monkey-tail firs turned more and more into deciduous trees of an unknown species. The cows became more and more numerous here in the warmer valley. Some just watched me, others let themselves drift along in front of me until they got in their hurry and got out of the way. Sometimes they look at you with their long faces until you are almost in front of them, only to realize that their standard reaction is to flee. Then you can see in their faces how they suddenly realize that they would be better off running away after all.

When I arrived in Guallali, the destination of section 11, I tried to find out where I could find accommodation and food. Romina, who was recommended to me by the Carabineri, welcomed me with open arms. As I had slightly injured my leg when I fell into the water, she put me up for two nights and cooked me a delicious meal. Anyone passing through the Los Angeles hinterland should definitely make a detour to her place. While I waited for the other two, I did some shopping in the neighboring village, hitchhiked there, hitchhiked back, and let my mind wander a little. Ready for the next two sections that we will do in one swoop.